Driving your RC car through puddles, mud or even shallow streams is exciting – but even waterproof models need special care afterward 💦. Once the fun’s over, immediately turn off the car and follow a few simple steps. In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need: from immediate actions right after a wet run, to cleaning methods, drying tips, and rust prevention. We’ll even explain how to store your car and batteries long-term. Follow these steps and your RC will stay in top shape for the next adventure 🚗.
Immediate Actions (Turn Off, Remove Battery, Shake Out Water)
As soon as you come home, power off your RC and take out the battery pack. Also turn off and remove batteries from the transmitter. This prevents any shorts or corrosion from stray water. Next, open the body or electronics cover to expose the chassis. Carefully tilt and shake the car to drain out water from chassis, tires and suspension. Tap wheels and axles (pointing down) to flush out trapped water in the hubs or shocks. If your wheels have vent holes, you can plug them before driving and then remove plugs to let water out as suggested on forums.
- Disconnect power: Always remove the battery pack immediately after use per manufacturer guidelines. This prevents the wet electronics from shorting or drawing power while you work.
- Remove body shell and covers: Pop off the body to access electronics and internals. Take off dust covers or receiver boxes if possible.
- Shake and tap water out: Flip and tilt the car in different directions. Gently shake wheels and chassis so any water can run out of differentials, shocks or bearings.
- Blow out water: Use compressed air or a leaf blower to blow out remaining water from tires, shafts and suspension. Hold the nozzle at an angle – don’t blast directly at sensitive fans or electronics. Compressed air is great for pushing moisture out of hard-to-reach spots.
- Wipe dry: Use a dry cloth or paper towel on exposed parts and the chassis. Make sure no pooled water remains on the speed controller (ESC) or receiver. As one manual warns, “After running in water, dry off any excess water from ESC and connectors”.
By following these immediate steps – cutting power, draining and blowing out water – you prevent the worst damage. Even cars with water-resistant electronics need this care.
Cleaning: Freshwater Rinse vs Compressed Air vs Brushing (Avoid Salt)
Once the initial water is out, it’s time to clean off dirt and grime. Mud and debris left on the car can hold moisture or gunk, so remove as much as possible. Here are three common cleaning methods, and a quick note on saltwater:
| Method | When to Use / How to Clean | Caution / Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh-Water Rinse | Good for heavy mud or sand. Use a gentle stream of warm freshwater (garden hose) to rinse the chassis, wheels, and body. Use a mild detergent or degreaser on caked mud (a soft brush or toothbrush helps loosen dirt). | Always use fresh water only – saltwater will corrode metal fast. Avoid high-pressure jets (they can force water into places or peel paint). A moderate, warm spray is best per hobbyist advice. Dry thoroughly right after. |
| Compressed Air | Best for blowing out loose dirt and water from nooks (bearings, shocks, chassis crevices). Good as a follow-up to rinsing: hold the car in different positions and blow out stagnant water. | Keep pressure moderate; don’t spray air directly at fans or soft parts. Use bursts of short bursts and tilt the car so water can escape. |
| Brushing / Wiping | Use a soft brush (toothbrush or paintbrush) to scrub off stuck mud from suspension, gears, and body. Wipe surfaces and connectors with a damp cloth. | Avoid using brushes on delicate electronics or foam tires. For stubborn spots, spray a little isopropyl alcohol or specialized cleaner and then wipe. After brushing, rinse away loosened dirt. |
| Saltwater (Avoid) | Never intentionally run your car in saltwater. If it happens, immediately rinse with fresh water until no salt remains. Salt left on parts will rapidly rust bearings and motor components. | Treat a salt-run as an emergency: strip parts, rinse them many times, and dry thoroughly. Afterwards, plan to replace bearings and ball nuts as salt is highly corrosive. |
Key tips: Always remove salt and contaminants. One RC hobbyist warns that even a little salt can “kill your car in just 12-18 hours” if not washed off. After rinsing or brushing, use compressed air or a shop vac to remove any remaining water. A wet rag or baby wipes work well for a quick clean-up of electronics. Never let dirty, salty water evaporate on your car – it leaves behind residues that attract rust.
Drying Methods (Desiccants, Low-Heat Drying, Alcohol Bath for Connections)
After cleaning, every drop of moisture must go. Air-drying at room temperature is the safest first step. Leave the chassis and parts in a warm, dry room (like a bathroom after a hot shower) for several hours. You can also use a fan or forced warm air (blow dryer on a low/medium setting) to speed evaporation. Keep the heat moderate – do not use high heat or place batteries near heaters (this can damage plastics or LiPo packs).
- Compressed air or blower: Blast away pooled water from hard-to-reach spots (fuel-tank vents, diff covers, chassis vents). Use multiple angles and continue until no moisture blows out.
- Silica gel packs: Place small electronics (receiver box, ESC) and other parts in a sealed container or bag with silica gel packets (the “do not eat” desiccant packets). These will absorb residual moisture overnight in humid conditions. In humid areas, storing parts with silica gel is especially helpful.
- Isopropyl alcohol bath: For wet connectors, boards, or motor bearings, a quick dip or swab with high-purity isopropyl (90%+) is very effective. The alcohol displaces water and evaporates quickly without leaving residue. One RC user recommends 91% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush to scrub any wet contacts – it “dries quickly” and prevents corrosion.
- Low heat / sunlight: Placing components in mild sunlight or near a gentle heater can help, but don’t overdo it. LiPo batteries should never be exposed to high heat. Check parts often and move them if anything feels too hot.
The goal is that no part feels damp to touch. Pay special attention to bearing housings, diffs, shocks and the inside of the motor if it got water. As one RC manual notes, “Remove all water/mud and dry the vehicle completely after driving”. Only once everything is bone-dry should you proceed to lubrication.
Rust Prevention: Lubricants, WD-40 vs Dedicated Protectants
Now that the car is clean and dry, protect all metal parts from rust. Lubricate bearings, hinge pins, drive shafts and gears. Below is a quick comparison of products and tips commonly suggested by RC hobbyists:
| Product / Type | Usage / Pros | Cons / Notes |
|---|---|---|
| WD-40 (Multi-Use) | Penetrates and displaces water, cleans off rust. | Not a good long-term lubricant. It can attract dirt and may ruin bearings over time. Use WD-40 to wash off rust or water, but do not use it as the final coating on bearings. |
| WD-40 Specialist PTFE Dry Lube | Advanced WD-40 product with PTFE (Teflon). It dries to a thin film and provides water-resistant lubrication. View on Amazon | Better than regular WD-40 as a finish coat, but it’s still oil-based. Can attract some dust; need to reapply periodically. |
| Silicone Spray | (e.g. Muc-Off Silicon Shine, GT85) – great on plastics, rubbers and metal. Water-repellent; leaves a slippery film. | Not as “slick” as oil, but won’t gum up bearings. Reapply often. One community member says they switched to silicone spray after rinsing, since “WD-40 will ruin bearings”. |
| PTFE Dry Lube (Tri-Flow) | Penetrates deeply and leaves a lasting Teflon coating. Excellent for bearings and metal parts as recommended in forums. View on Amazon | Usually needs time to soak in. It’s more expensive but highly recommended by RC users as a final lube (often mentioned as “squirt” step after drying). |
| White Lithium Grease (CRC 3-36) | Thick grease spray ideal for chassis, gears, and metal-to-metal. Forms a robust rust-inhibiting barrier. View on Amazon | Overkill for bearings (can be too sticky). Good for external pivots or brass bushings. (CRC 3-36 is a popular multi-purpose corrosion spray.) |
| Corrosion Inhibitor (e.g. Muc-Off Protect, CRC 3-36) | Special post-wash sprays that coat all exposed metal. They leave an invisible film to block moisture. View Muc-Off Bike Protect on Amazon | Use on painted chassis, roll bars, or any exposed metals. Many enthusiasts use Muc-Off Bike Protect or CRC 3-36 to guard against rust. |
Community tips: RC hobbyists often summarize the routine as “run, clean, dry, squirt”. That “squirt” means lubrication or protectant. In practice, many users recommend something like Tri-Flow (PTFE spray) or silicone-based lubricants for final protection. WD-40 (the blue can) is fine to spray when the car is first rinsed, but always follow it with a proper lube. As one expert put it: use WD-40 to wash off salt and water, then apply a dry lubricant to “keep things from rusting”.
After applying lubricant, cycle the drivetrain (spin wheels, turn motor) to work it in. Wipe off any excess to avoid attracting grit. You now have a thin protective layer on bearings, gears and shafts – your car is officially ready for storage or the next run 🛡️.
Long-Term Storage & Pre-Ride Checklist
Once everything’s clean, dry and oiled, think about storing your RC car properly. Long-term care makes your next ride smooth. Here’s what to do:
- Let it dry completely: Never store a wet or damp RC. Storing it while still wet “can promote rust and corrosion” on metal parts per storage guides. Make sure no moisture remains inside tires, tanks or chassis.
- Final lubricant lock-in: If possible, run the drivetrain once after lubrication to distribute grease. Then wipe any drips, and leave everything to finish drying. This locks in the protective coatings on the moving parts.
- Clean and protect internals: Before putting the car away, double-check and lubricate any internal components. One RC storage guide advises cleaning shocks, gears and metal parts and “apply appropriate lubricants to prevent corrosion”. This keeps parts moving smoothly in storage.
- Store electronics safely: Keep your receiver, ESC and other electronics sealed (where dry) or in a safe bag. You can throw a few spare silica gel packs in the box or toolbox to absorb moisture during storage.
- Battery care: Remove batteries from the car. For LiPo packs, store them at about 50–60% charge in a fireproof container. Never leave LiPos fully charged or completely drained for long periods. Store batteries in a cool, dry place away from flammable items.
- Positioning: If possible, put the car on a stand or blocks so the suspension isn’t fully compressed. This avoids flat spots on tires or weakened springs. Keep the car in a dry, climate-controlled spot (not a damp garage).
- Check screws and parts: As part of maintenance, always inspect for loose screws or worn parts. Tighten wheel nuts, check that prop shafts or dogbones are secure, and replace any damaged bearings or pins. (One manual notes you should “make sure your wheels are tight and parts move freely” after use.)
When it’s time for the next ride, inspect the car again quickly: reinstall batteries, rebind/test the radio, and take a short test run. Make sure steering and throttle respond normally. Check battery and motor temps after the first run. By keeping up this routine, your RC car will be in great shape every time you play – and you’ll avoid costly repairs from water damage.
In summary: Quick action after a wet run (power off, remove batteries, shake out water), followed by a thorough clean and dry, will keep rust away. Then seal the deal with good lubricants and proper storage. With this post-wet-run maintenance, your “waterproof” RC will truly stay waterproof – and fun for a long time.