Water and RC electronics usually don’t mix – a stray splash can knock out your receiver and end your fun. But you don’t need expensive gear or permanent mods to protect your gear. There are quick, reversible fixes that can keep rain, mud, and splashes at bay. In this guide we cover when a temporary shield is enough versus when you need a more permanent seal. Then we’ll show you step-by-step how to use household items (like a balloon and heat-shrink tubing) to wrap the receiver in a waterproof shell. We’ll also compare small plastic receiver boxes (with rubber gaskets) and other tricks like dielectric grease. Finally, we’ll discuss keeping things serviceable so you don’t void warranties or make cleanup hard.
We keep it simple: you don’t need an engineering degree. Most methods use everyday materials (and many cost under $5!). We’ll cite expert tips from RC forums and hobby sources to back everything up. Follow along, and you’ll know how to protect your receiver on a rainy day – even if you’re only in 8th grade! 🚀
When a Quick Fix Is OK vs. a Permanent Seal
Not all waterproofing is the same. Think about how wet your vehicle gets and how often before choosing a method:
- Splash/Rain Protection: If you only hit puddles occasionally, a quick fix is usually enough. You might just want to keep out rain, mud, or spray during a bashing session. In this case, easy solutions like a balloon wrap or an open receiver box can do the job. These are cheap, fast, and reversible – you can peel them off in minutes if you need to service the receiver later Reddit Axial Adventure.
- Frequent Water Exposure: If you regularly run through deep water (e.g. RC boats, or driving in heavy rain), you need a more permanent solution. That might mean a proper sealed box or even conformal coating/epoxy. These can handle submersion better but are harder to undo and might void your warranty.
Quick fixes (balloon, plastic box, grease) are great for casual use and won’t damage your gear. For example, many racers say a little splash protection is enough if you dry everything well afterward. On the other hand, permanent fixes (epoxy or silicone potting) truly seal out water, but you generally can’t open the receiver again without cutting it open – so use them only when absolutely needed or on older parts.
Method | Effort | Waterproof Level | Reversible | Warranty |
---|---|---|---|---|
Balloon + Tape/Heat-Shrink | Very Low (minutes) | Rain/splash tolerant | ✔ Yes (easy) | ✔ Yes (no mod) |
Plastic Receiver Box | Low-Med (install) | Moderate (splash) | ✔ Yes | ✔ Yes |
Dielectric Grease | Low (dab on plugs) | Moderate (damp) | ✔ Yes | ✔ Yes |
Conformal Coating / Epoxy | High (hours cure) | Very High (submersion) | ✘ No (permanent) | ✘ No (voids) |
Comparison of quick-fix vs. permanent methods. A balloon or box gives short-term rain protection but can be removed; coatings are permanent and usually void warranties. |
Key point: If you have new gear under warranty, stick to reversible fixes first. A homemade fix like a balloon or tape won’t anger the manufacturer as much as glued-on potting. Also, after any wet run, always remove batteries, unplug servos, and air-dry the electronics to prevent corrosion. Even waterproofed gear should be dried out when done, or it will eventually fail. 💧
Balloon + Heat-Shrink Trick (Step-by-Step): Reversible and Cheap
One of the oldest and simplest tricks in RC is using a party balloon as a raincoat for your receiver. In fact, many experienced RC drivers swear by it. The idea is to slip the receiver board into a deflated rubber balloon and then seal the neck. It’s nearly 100% waterproof for splashes and can be done in minutes with items you likely have at home. Best of all, it’s 100% reversible – cut the heat-shrink and peel off the balloon to service the receiver at any time.
A cheap “balloon wrap” for an RC receiver. Slide the board into a rubber balloon and seal the open end. (Photo: Axial) 🌈
How to do it (step-by-step):
- Prepare the parts: Grab a durable latex party balloon (bigger size helps). Stretch the neck open with your fingers to make the opening wide. Also cut a short piece of heat-shrink tubing (about 1–2 inches long) that fits snugly around the balloon’s neck and the receiver’s wires. A 3:1 shrink ratio tubing is best so it grips well. (Tip: Kits of heat-shrink tubing are cheap on Amazon.)
- Plug in the wires: Connect all your servo and power wires to the receiver first, so nothing blocks the balloon fit. Leave about an inch of slack – the goal is to have all plugs inserted, then cover the entire board and the connector bases with the balloon.
- Insert receiver into the balloon: While holding the stretched balloon neck open, carefully drop the whole receiver board inside the balloon. Some motorsport racers team up with a friend (a “third hand”) to hold the balloon open while sliding in the receiver. It can be tricky with bulky ESC wires. Keep the board flat so the receiver’s circuit board is completely inside.
- Seal with heat-shrink: Once the board is inside, slide the cut piece of heat-shrink tubing up over the balloon’s neck (covering where the wires exit). Use a heat gun or even a lighter flame (carefully!) to shrink the tubing. As it shrinks, it clamps the balloon tightly around the wires, sealing the opening. The plastic balloon neck is very thin, so the heat-shrink creates a good water-tight band. Let the tubing cool and set.
- Zip-tie or tape (optional extra): For redundancy, you can cinch a small zip-tie around the neck over the tubing or use plastic tape. This isn’t strictly needed, but it gives extra confidence in the seal. (If you use tape, cover only the exterior of the tubing; tape itself is not fully waterproof long-term.)
- Final checks: Make sure no gaps remain. If any wire sticks out too far, trim or adjust it so all wires exit through the sealed portion. You want zero exposed holes. Now you have a balloon-coated receiver. It will keep out most rain and mud – drivers report it works “like a charm”.
- Remove for maintenance: When you need to service the receiver, simply cut the heat-shrink and pull off the balloon. The board will be bone-dry inside (unless it was submerged). You can easily replace the balloon and tubing in minutes for next time.
Why this works: The latex balloon material is naturally waterproof (think life jackets made of latex rubber). Covering the entire board means water can’t directly touch the electronics. The heat-shrink acts like a tight rubber band around the wire exits. RC racers have used this trick for decades. One Reddit user literally said “A rubber balloon and a ziptie is all you need bro!”. Another driver confirmed in rain races that balloon-wrapped receivers held up well. 🎉
Caution: The balloon does block airflow, but modern receivers have very low power draw and heat. In short bashing sessions it’s fine. If you worry about heat, give your rig a break between runs. Also, avoid open flames too close; apply heat-shrink quickly and from a safe distance (the balloon itself can melt if overheated).
Small Waterproof Receiver Boxes – Pros and Cons
Another common method is using a receiver box. Many RC cars come with a plastic receiver case (often for dust protection), and aftermarket “waterproof” boxes are sold separately. These are small hard plastic enclosures with rubber gaskets and screw-on lids, designed to seal out spray. Brands like Traxxas, Redcat, Axial and Arrma make them (or you can buy universal ones cheaply). A typical box is about 3″×2″×1″ – big enough for a small surface receiver or even a micro flysky unit.
How to use a receiver box: You mount the receiver inside the box, route all wires through a rubber grommet, and screw on the lid. The box gasket (or O-ring) should form a water-tight seal. Wires go through a water-resistant bag or grommet, so the only exit holes are the sealed ends. For example, Traxxas’s waterproof radio boxes have a red rubber seal and drain hole.
Pros of a receiver box:
- Neat and tidy: Everything is contained. It looks clean, and electronics are protected from dirt too.
- Reuse serviceably: You can open the box easily to service or replace components, and the gasket keeps reusing.
- Good for rainy days: It can handle heavy spray better than an open chassis.
- No chemical coating needed: It’s purely mechanical.
Cons of receiver boxes:
- Not foolproof waterproofing: In many forums, hobbyists note that even “waterproof” boxes can leak if not sealed perfectly. Tiny gaps or worn gaskets can let water in RC Crawler. One RC crawler forum user warned: “Receiver boxes are rarely waterproof…they usually just fill up with water and cause more problems” unless sealed with silicone.
- Bulk: Some boxes are large and hard to mount tightly, especially on small scalers.
- Heat buildup: In a fully enclosed box, electronics can get warmer, though for receivers this is usually minor.
Pro tip – seal the seams: If you use a box, add a thin smear of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or silicone grease around the rubber gasket and wire-entry points ARRMA Forum. This improves the seal without gluing anything permanently. An ARRMA forum veteran recommends “Use some Vaseline on the cable entry/exit to seal that area up as well as a thin layer on the gasket”. The grease fills tiny gaps so splashes roll off. It also stops the gasket from sticking or twisting.
Maintenance: After wet runs, open the box, remove the receiver, and dry everything. Some boxes have a tiny drain hole – keep it facing down when running. If salt water is involved, rinse with fresh water after use.
Bottom line: A waterproof box is a solid long-term solution if installed correctly. It’s not as foolproof as a glop of silicone epoxy, but it works well for everyday bashing. Many RC builders combine methods: e.g., put a balloon inside the box for double security, or keep the box in a ziplock as a backup. 🛡️
Using Dielectric Grease on Connectors & Antenna Tips
Even with a box or balloon, exposed plug ends and the antenna can get moisture. A simple, quick protection is dielectric grease (a silicone-based waterproof grease). It’s often sold for cars and boats, and every RC hobbyist toolkit should have a little. Examples include CRC Marine Dielectric Grease or Permatex dielectric silicone grease. (See the CRC Marine Dielectric Grease on Amazon – it’s a 3.3 oz pressurized can that comes with a handy applicator tube.)
How to use dielectric grease: Apply a small dab of the grease on any bare metal connector before plugging them together. Common places: bullet connectors for motors/servos, pin jacks, and servo cable plugs into the receiver. The grease is non-conductive but it repels water and prevents corrosion. Once parts are connected, a thin film remains at the joint, and moisture can’t wick in. You can also coat the outside of the servo and ESC connectors for extra insurance (just wipe off any excess as it can be slippery).
Dielectric grease also works on the antenna: If your RC receiver has an exposed antenna wire, slip a short section of silicone tubing over it. This prevents water from creeping down the wire insulation. Some pilots even put a rubber band on the antenna end so water drips off. The main goal is that the antenna’s quarter-wave tip (about 8cm for 2.4GHz) stays dry, since water droplets on it can slightly detune reception.
Expert tip: RC forums agree that dielectric grease is a good idea in wet conditions. One user explained that it “helps a little to prevent water damage” but noted that it’s on the thin side – heavy heat or abrasion will burn it off over time. Others say it’s so effective they “consider it 100% waterproof” when used liberally inside cases. In practice, even a light coating is useful. It won’t hurt anything: if grease contacts metal, it actually insulates and keeps the metal from rusting. It’s easier to apply and remove than solder or epoxy.
Antenna routing: Finally, mind your antenna placement. Keep the exposed wire (the part sticking out of the receiver box) routed away from the chassis or metal parts. Coil any spare length loosely – do not sharply bend the wire. A wavy loop is fine. If you run in water, make sure the antenna end is above any water spray line. Some racers extend their antenna tube up the shock tower or antenna mount to stay dry. The idea is to keep it vertical and high, just as manufacturers recommend for best range. 📡
Serviceability: Keep Warranty & Make Future Repairs Easy
One big reason to favor quick fixes: you keep your warranties and service options. Many RC companies explicitly disclaim water damage (and even more disclaim modification). For example, companies like Traxxas or Spektrum will usually refuse warranty on any water-damaged electronics. Worse, if you open the receiver case or coat it in epoxy, they’ll say your warranty is void. (Even conformal silicone can count as tampering.) A manufacturer brochure might note: “Even if your electronics are ‘waterproofed,’ other components need care,” warning that you risk damage by going wet.
Therefore, if your radio is new or you might claim warranty, do the reversible methods first. Zip-tied balloon wraps, foam padding, silicone grease and the like are all easily undone. If something goes wrong later, you can simply remove these without trace. By contrast, slapping epoxy or factory potting (which some RC boats use) is permanent.
Pro tip for after runs: Always remove the battery after a wet run (even with all this waterproofing). Keep your transmitter and receiver moist seal intact and store them in a dry place. If the receiver ever does get wet inside, let it air out completely (don’t just plug in and power up). Condensation can linger and corrode the board. A quick drip of isopropyl alcohol and a fan can help dry circuit boards faster.
Quick vs. permanent recap: Stick with balloons, boxes, silicone grease and similar fixes to protect your receiver in most situations. These methods are cheap, easy, and carry no long-term damage. Only resort to full conformal coating or epoxy potting if you must have absolute waterproofing and you don’t mind sacrificing the receiver afterwards. In practice, many RC racers find a balloon+box combo plus grease is enough for rain and puddles.
Summary
Protecting an RC receiver from water doesn’t have to be complicated. For quick, temporary protection on rainy or muddy days, use a balloon-and-heat-shrink wrap. It only takes a few minutes and can be removed easily. Alternatively (or additionally), mount your receiver in a plastic waterproof box with its gasket sealed by a dab of Vaseline or silicone grease. For exposed plugs and the antenna, a smear of dielectric grease helps keep moisture out.
These fixes will let you keep driving through splashes and light rain with confidence. Remember to dry out your electronics after every run. And if you ever need to claim warranty or do repairs, all these methods can be undone without a trace. With these tips, your receiver will stay dry, and you’ll keep your RC adventures running safely in wet conditions. 🏎️
Affiliate links: For your convenience, you can find useful products on Amazon: e.g. Traxxas/Univ. Waterproof Receiver Box, Redcat Waterproof Receiver Box, marine dielectric grease and a heat-shrink tubing kit. These products can help implement the methods above easily.
Sources: Expert RC forums and blogs like Axial Adventure, Reddit groups, and ARRMA forums provide practical tips on waterproofing RC receivers. The quoted tips and steps above come from experienced hobbyists sharing what works in the field.